Apr 212012
 

I have to confess that I can never remember what those three numbers on the fertilizer container stand for. If I can just remember 6-12-6 I’m doing well.  Here is another excellent article by Jill Barnard that describes very clearly what those numbers mean for rose growers, the difference between organic and inorganic fertilizers, micro-nutrients, chelated minerals, and more. Don’t worry; you don’t have to memorize it, and there will not be a test! Here’s to more beautiful blooms through chemistry – organic or inorganic. Click here to go to the article in pdf format.

American Rose Society, P.O. Box 30,000, Shreeveport, LA 71130 1-800-637-6534 www.ars.org

A Fertilizer Primer: What’s in That Rose Food?

By Jill Barnard

Roses love to grow. Given minimal care they will survive and produce flowers. With a regular feeding program and a varied diet, roses will thrive and produce armloads of large, beautiful blooms. There are many types of fertilizers, liquid (soluble) or dry (granular), organic or in-organic. Find a program that works for you, but do it on a once-a-month basis during the growing season.

ORGANIC VS. IN-ORGANIC

Organic (or natural) fertilizers are derived from any formerly living plant or animal matter. Most commonly used are blood meal, cottonseed meal, bone meal or superphosphate, alfalfa meal and fish meal. Manures – chicken, rabbit and steer are also in this category. Organics are generally slower-release, as they require decomposition by soil micro-organisms before being usable by the plant. They supply benefits to the soil in addition to food for the plants, and should therefore be a regular part of your amendment program.

In-organic (or chemical) plant foods are man-made compositions, formulated for various speeds of release, but generally provide an immediate food source for our heavy-feeding roses, as compared to organic foods. Brand name manufactured rose foods include Bandini , Fertilome , Miracle-Gro , RapidGro , Sterns , Peters , etc. Roses utilize natural and chemical food sources equally, and benefit greatly from use of both, on an alternating basis.

“BALANCED” ROSE FOOD

The term is used frequently, and simply means that a fertilizer has a blend of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium (N-P-K), though not necessarily in equal parts, in a formulation beneficial for roses. Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium are the three major ingredients required by all plant materials, in varying proportions, dependent upon the plant s needs. Fertilizers, by law, have a numerical N-P-K ratio printed on the container. A 6-12-6 ratio means that the mixture contains 6% Nitrogen, 12% Phosphorus and 6% Potassium. It contains 24% total nutrients and 76% filler material. 6-12-6 is considered a Balanced Rose Food, as it supplies the basic ingredients in proportions beneficial to roses on a continual basis.

Roses utilize each ingredient at differing times of the growth and blooming cycles. More Nitrogen is needed for early spring growth of stems and foliage, plus continual moderate supply during the entire growing season. Phosphorus is for roots and blooms; a higher phosphorus food should be supplied from 3 weeks before blooming until blooming. Potassium provides health for the plant, a catalyst for Nitrogen and Phosphorus. It also builds in hardiness to heat, drought and cold, and is therefore a good supplement just prior to the dormant season.

Each of the three ingredients may be purchased separately for addition to specialized feedings.

NITROGEN SOURCES

When we add organic matter to our soil, its nitrogen content is not immediately available to the plant; it must first be broken down during the decay process. During that process, matter is transformed first into ammonium, then to nitrite, and finally to nitrate nitrogen forms. While the process can take from several days to years, various compounds are formed which are used by soil microorganisms for their own growth.

Since the nitrogen required by rose bushes is mainly in the nitrate form, the importance of chemical fertilizers becomes evident: to supply instantly available nitrogen via nitrate forms; plus nitrogen available within a short space of time via ammonium forms (urea and ammonium phosphates, etc.). A fertilizer containing all three sources – nitrate, ammonium and urea is superior. Learn to read labels to determine nitrogen sources.

PHOSPHORUS AND POTASSIUM

Both are supplied as primary nutrients in balanced fertilizers. Phosphorus moves very slowly in the soil, so applications are available only to feeder roots within a few inches of the soil surface. Continued use ensures that a supply of phosphorus will eventually reach the lower root structures, provided the soil Ph is proper. The importance of placing bone meal or superphosphate in the bottom of the planting hole becomes clear – newly planted roses need phosphorus supplied at the root zone. Potassium also moves slowly and is not readily leached from the soil. However, it is extremely mobile within the plant system, where it can be leached from the leaves (its primary destination), by rain or irrigation. A continual supply of potassium is good practice.

SECONDARY- AND MICRO-NUTRIENTS

In an effort to provide the ultimate balanced fertilizer for roses, some formulations include secondary nutrients (calcium, magnesium and sulphur, etc.). Sulphur is an excellent ingredient to help acidify alkaline soil. Where soils are acid, additions of Lime will adjust the pH. High calcium content in soils can render magnesium unavailable – another good reason to add Epsom Salts (magnesium sulphate) continually.

Micronutrients (iron, zinc, manganese, copper, cobalt, boron, chlorine and molybdenum) are added in some formulations as well. Percentages are typically small, as roses require only small amounts. Consider a fertilizer with chelated forms of micronutrients as most desirable, as they are the most usable by the plant.

“CHELATED” ELEMENTS (IRON, ZINC, MANGANESE, ETC.)

Several trace elements already exist in soils, and are added to fertilizers as an additional supply. If the soil Ph is too high (above 7.0), some elements become unusable (insoluble) by the plant. This is especially true of iron and manganese, and to a lesser degree, copper, zinc and boron.

Chemical reactions in the soil slowly convert the elements into insoluble forms. First, soil Ph must be adjusted to the 6.0 – 7.0 range, then usable forms of the elements must be added. “Chelates”, without getting scientific, are simply forms of each element that remain soluble in the soil, and are readily available to the plant. However, since this solubility allows them to readily move out of the root zone with irrigation, repeated applications are needed.

Hence, the value of a fertilizer with chelated forms of the trace elements included. This new knowledge of fertilizers is only a basic beginning to understanding the needs of roses. An excellent program to continually acquire new techniques to grow roses is available through a membership in the American Rose Society. The monthly American Rose Magazine is alone worth the low membership fee, and can save you equal amounts in reduced costs through better understanding of how to grow roses!

 Posted by at 6:51 PM
Apr 212012
 

This helpful article by Jill Barnard gives simple and clear instructions, just as the title indicates, for when and how to fertilize your roses. I especially like the fact that she gives different, yet clear and concise instructions, depending on your interest in roses – casual, dedicated, or junkie/exhibitor. It includes a good basic fertilizer recipe and explains how much to apply and how often to do so. Click here to go to a pdf of this article.

American Rose Society, P.O. Box 30,000, Shreeveport, LA 71130 1-800-637-6534  www.ars.org

Fertilizers: When and How

By: Jill Barnard

Roses are heavy feeders, but supplied with a varied nutritional diet, they will provide an abundance of large, beautiful blooms. After the first spring bloom, you will be reminded that the reward is well worth the effort you expend.

NEW ROSES VS. ESTABLISHED BUSHES

For newly planted bare root plants, care must be taken not to burn the tiny new roots. Apply organic amendments to the soil at planting time, then wait until after the plant has produced its first blooms to apply chemical fertilizers. By this time you can be sure the roots are large enough to withstand chemical additions without burning. Water well first, apply the fertilizer and water well again. You may now begin a regular feeding program, but take a little extra caution – use weaker strength fertilizers on a more frequent basis for a safe, adequate food supply.

WHEN TO START FERTILIZING ESTABLISHED BUSHES

Immediately after pruning, incorporate organic amendments into the soil. As the soil warms with the weather, the organics will start to break down and supply a slow release nutritional diet to your roses, as well as feeding the soil micro-organisms. A basic recipe would include, per bush:

  • 1 cup bone meal or superphosphate (0-20-0)1 cup cottonseed meal
  • 1/2 cup blood meal
  • 1/2 cup fish meal
  • 1/2 cup Epsom salts (magnesium sulphate)

Water thoroughly first, then spread the ingredients evenly around the bush, under the drip-line (outer perimeter) of the bush. Scratch lightly into the top 1-2″ of soil and water well again. In warm climates with long growing seasons (January-February pruning and blooms through November-December), a second application is beneficial in early September for fall bloom cycles.

About two to three weeks after spring pruning and adding organic amendments, new growth will appear. Chemical fertilizers, whether liquid or dry, can be applied at this time, and will provide an instant food source for this heavy feeding period. How often to apply is a subjective decision, based on the amount of time and devotion you have, but once a month should be the minimum. First, lets determine your style:

CASUAL ROSE GROWER

You like to look at roses from your window, but don’t know the varietal names and only cut a few for the house. Your best bet would be a granular food with an N-P-K of about 10-10-10, applied every four weeks according to directions. Fish emulsion applied as a liquid fertilizer when buds are about pea-size (about three weeks before each bloom cycle) will enhance bloom color. Add chelated iron for rich green foliage. In hot climates, reduce the amount of fertilizer applied by half during June, July and August, but stay on the same 4-week frequency. Don’t overlook the semi-annual dose of amendments!

DEDICATED GARDENER

Realizing roses require a steady source of food, and having the time to supply it, you are willing to adopt a bi-weekly fertilizer program for the big blooms. Start with an application of granular food as first growth appears in Spring. Then begin a program of liquid fertilizers, alternating the following on a two-week basis:

  • Peters, Grow More or Verdi-sol: (all 20-20-20)
  • Fish Emulsion (5-1-1)
  • Green-Up, Deep Feed or Pentrex: (soil penetrant, fertilizers and iron, 16-4-2)
  • Epsom Salts (magnesium sulfate)

Apply according to package directions, usually 1 Tbsp per gallon, 2 gallons per bush. Add Epsom Salts at 1/4 C per bush, either dissolved in the liquid feeding or sprinkled straight from the package onto the soil. A periodic dose of iron chelate added to the fertilizer may be required for deep green foliage.

MAIN LINE ROSE JUNKIE (OR EXHIBITOR)

Your “main line” is your hose, and you have had it surgically attached to your hand, since you fertilize weekly. Your main goal is a trophy in a local, district or national rose show. Use the above rotation of fertilizers on a weekly basis, but reduce the concentration to about half of that called for on the label. Iron chelate added to a solution monthly, and zinc chelate three weeks before a show will ensure rich foliage and bloom color.

HOW TO APPLY

This again depends upon the number of rose plants you have and the method and type of fertilizer you choose. Granular fertilizers need only to be evenly scattered on the damp soil, 8″ away from the bud union, scratched lightly into the soil, and watered in well (one-two gallons per bush). For liquid or water soluble fertilizers, two devices can play time-saving roles. Hose-end sprayers that will hold enough liquid or soluble fertilizer to feed your number of bushes with one or two fillings are great. The sprayer should have an adjustable dial that indicates how many ounces, teaspoons or tablespoons per gallon of water you are delivering. Fertilizers used must be water soluble, meaning they dissolve thoroughly and quickly in water. Miracle-Gro is a good example.

If you have succumbed to greed and compulsion, and your rose garden has grown beyond 50-60 plants, I recommend a syphon device. At about $10, this is a garden miracle-worker, available at most nurseries. A brass connector is placed between your water spigot and hose, to which a black tube is attached. You mix any water-soluble fertilizer with water in a 5-gallon bucket, at 16 times the concentration prescribed on the package, and leave the bucket at the water spigot. The tube placed in the bucket draws out one part concentrate and mixes it with 16 parts water, delivers it from the hose end, and fertilizes 30-35 bushes at the recommended dilution. And you never lift the bucket! Again, water soluble fertilizers must be used. Start with 4-5 inches of HOT water in a 5-gallon bucket, add the fertilizers and stir until dissolved. Then fill the bucket to the desired concentration.

HOW LONG TO CONTINUE

Roses need a constant food source throughout their growing season. In areas of high heat, June, July and August are very stressful times for all plants. The recommended approach during those months is to reduce the quantity of applied fertilizer by half, but on the same frequency. Also during those months, when you water every day and flood once a week, it makes little sense to use liquid fertilizers, as they are flushed out of the soil as quickly as they are applied. A granular rose food of about a 6-12-6, used half strength, will supply a steady release of nutrients without high nitrogen concentration, to allow a semi-dormancy of the bushes during this period. Exhibitors withhold nitrogen and increase phosphorus about three weeks prior to shows, to focus growth away from leaves and stems, and into bloom quality. The same theory should be applied in fall. Apply your last nitrogen-based fertilizer about 30-45 days before the first frost date. You don’t want to encourage lush new cane growth that will not have time to harden off prior to frost or cold.

CLIMBERS

Being two to three times the size of bushes, climbers need 2 to 3 times the fertilizer. If using granular food, apply double strength and a little more often, spreading around the plant out to the drip line. If using liquid, saturate the same ground area well.

MINIATURES

Minis are hardier to heat and cold than their big sisters, but are very sensitive to fertilizers. Always feed half strength, whatever you use. They love fish emulsion and other natural products. Minis in containers must be watered well before application of any fertilizer, but allowed to drain well too. Remove the tray from beneath the container, to allow them to drain completely and not be left standing in water.

 Posted by at 6:01 PM